Sunday 12 January 2014

St. Martin the French


Volver had a good trip from Anguilla to Marigot Bay in St. Martin, despite having a limited sail plan (no lazy jacks on the main and since we really are lazy Jacks we didn't relish the idea of flaking the main after use in 20 knot winds).  The journey was short and it marked a first for us in the caribbean:  we went out and were not caught in a squall (they usually come just when you want to moor, whether this be at a dock (hardest), mooring ball (not as challenging), or at anchor (easiest).   We went to the marina for the first night, which offered 2/4 of the luxuries we were counting on:  laundry and water yes, hot shower (no, the pay showers were freezing!  better the scrub in the cockpit with the room temperature fresh water on board), wifi, offered but neither of us could connect.  

Marigot is the favorite "large city" we have visited thus far.  Great shopping, cafes, markets and a proper village with sidewalks.  We enjoyed it quite a bit, although the anchorage was a little rolly.  We discovered the joys of the "lolos," which are a cluster of restos offering creole food for reasonable prices.  Very good local chow, with lots of locals enjoying, unlike the pricier marina area, which can look empty unless there are cruise ships about. 

We found ourselves surrounded by eight boats with Canadian flags one day!  Go Canada! 

Then we were off to Grand Case, which the guidebook describes as the culinary epicentre of St. Martin.  There is a long beach, a large anchorage, a little rolly at times, especially during the frequent 30 knot gusts (good anchor holding, no evidence of dragging), and a single street that is lined on both sides my many restos, cafes, and beach bars. 


Beach bars of Grand Case

Reef along the rock


We went to snorkel the reef in between squalls today.  Visibility only fair, there was quite the surf coming in between the island and the reef, which is a marine park.  There were some interesting fish, and some coral.  The first mate found it helpful to use a lifejacket in the strong current.  Remind me to do that more often!  It appeals to the chief safety officer in me.  Speaking of safety, here is a shout out to Brian and the team at the GTAA.  The two safety vests are being put to good use.  At night, put on the binnacle, one is assured of finding their boat in even the most crowded anchorage, with the weakest flashlight around.  Sometimes the first mate wears the 2nd one, assuring both of us we won't get T-Boned by a local in a hurry (this happened to someone last year) but causing the cap'n some embarrassment.  

Headlamps are also good for dark dinghy rides!

We have a pet turtle at our boat.  No, we don't feed it.  And it is very camera shy:  as soon as it pokes its head up close enough for us to take it's photo and we grab the camera, it takes a dive!  

We were hoping to leave today, Sunday, but the weather window looks like Wednesday will be the better day, with a forecast of 10-15 knots and 5-7 foot seas.  We don't know if we'll go to St. Barth's, to St. Kitts, to St Eustatia, or to Guadeloupe and the Saints (16, 70, or 130 nautical miles, respectively!).  I guess we'll sort that out in the next couple days.  We do have to go around the corner to Anse Marcel to check out with immigration and this limits our departure time.  It would be nice to stick around Grand Case for tuesday night, when they close the street for Harmony night (lots of live bands).

1 comment:

  1. We liked the French side of St. Martin for the great food and the fresh produce in the markets. I used to dinghy in early to buy very many fresh croissants.

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