Wednesday 22 January 2014

Farewell to Nevis, for now!

Volver has enjoyed the quiet island (pop'n:  12000) of Nevis for the past week, and is preparing to set sail for Guadeloupe.  We hoped to break the 70 nm journey up into two stints of 35 nm, stopping overnight in Montserrat (the volcano is currently inactive!), but the seas are kicking up, so it is advisable for the boat with a seasick first mate to change plans and make an overnight passage to Guadeloupe.  We have checked out with customs, and are partially prepared:  the hatches are being battened, the passage meal is made, and we are stopping at the Double Deuce Beach Bar for some lunch and WiFi, and will take them up on their website's claim of helping with the acquisition of water.  There is no marina to easily access fuel and water, despite having 100 mooring balls!  We finally used the new wagon to acquire fuel and it was very effective!


Fuel Acquisition the hard way



There are lots of animals.   Here are some egrets at the site of some plantation ruins we visited when we took a taxi tour around the island with David, the Rasta Reggae artist, who treated us to his own music along the way.

A Mosquito problem waiting to happen

We had our first monkey siting at the Golden Rock Resort, which is a former plantation, now a small, quiet resort, with beautiful landscaping.  The new owners have an interest in art, and are starting to furnish it with some funky modern peices.  
Lounge at Golden Rock
the Dining area at Golden Rock


Ruins at Golden Rock (the honeymoon suite is in the former windmill that powered the sugar refining process)



We digress:  here is a monkey!

Shy Green Vervet monkey


We met Chick and Cheryl from PEI and enjoyed Happy Hour on their boat, Great Habit.  The four of us took a guided hiking tour through Gingerland, which is the area that has historically been the bread basket for both St. Kitts and Nevis.  Our tour guide, Earla, was very knowledgeable about local history, and she focussed on the foods and agricultural practices in the area.  There is a problem with the monkeys, who are not native to the islands, but are thought to have been imported in the 17th century by the (darn) French, who kept them as pets.  They are quite the nuisance to the farmers, for they take one bite out of a fruit or veg and throw it on the ground.  Earla advised that fortunately, there is always a goat, sheep, or donkey around to eat the rest, but it certainly cuts into productivity for the farmers!  


Rasta horse in Gingerland


There were stunning views during our walk around Gingerland.  We could see Antigua, Montserrat, and Redonda, as well as Nevis Peak (which is really three peaks).  Redonda is a rock that is in the middle of the triangle created by Montserrat, Antigua, and Nevis.  Apparently, Montserrat and Antigua are both laying claim to the rock, even though there is nothing on it, and no apparent potential for income generation or inhabitation.  Nevis has only gained independence from the British in 1973, and have no interest in it.  It seems as though it is most proximal to Monserrat, by the map.  
Redonda, with Monserrat in the background


Sheep in the Gingerland cemetary

We've truly enjoyed our time here.  The sea is clear, the land is beautiful, the people are genuinely friendly, the food is good, and there were no Megayachts until yesterday.

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