Antigua is for Limin'

Volver enjoyed several days in English Harbour, Antigua.  This beautiful place is part of the National Parks system.  The historic 18th century buildings were restored in 1951.  There are several remnants of fortifications.  Unlike some of the other Caribbean Islands, there was no back and forth between the Brits and the French; Antigua was always a British colony, and it continues to host a large population of Brits, who seem to both live here and visit here in large numbers.   The museum highlighted the maritime activities of English Harbour over time and also the exploits of Lord Nelson.  He was not too popular in the islands, for he was charged with enforcing the Navigation Act, after the Brits outlawed trade with the US after the Revolution.  He managed to marry a Nevisian, but two years later, he was living with his mistress, her husband, and her mother, in England.   Apparently, this was a very minor scandal in the UK, and the couple were looked upon as a guidepost for the latest fashions.  

Approach to Nelson's Dockyard

the nicest Immigration Office around

The Pillars Restaurant

The Pillars

Nelson's Dockyard Museum

The Copper and Lumber Hotel/former lumberyard

Sadly, no longer in business

Freeman's Bay Sunset, view from Volver's dining room

 We enjoyed hiking to Shirley Heights, where the remnants of an officer's quarter, hospital, and signalling station are situated, and is the site of twice weekly parties.  A headache kept us from attending on the designated time, but we could hear both steel pan and reggae bands quite clearly from the anchorage.  There was also a hike across to Fort Berkeley, which branches off to Pidgeon Beach, which is in Falmouth Harbour, the next bay over from English Harbour.   Falmouth Harbour is easily accessed by foot from English Harbour, and caters to the Superyacht market.  

Freeman's Bay from Above (Fort Berkeley is on the spit in the middle)

English Harbour (in foreground) and Falmouth Harbour

Former Officer's Quarters, Shirley Heights

Bath by the Sea, anyone?  Shirley Heights

View over to the Atlantic side of Antigua

Ruins on the hike from Fort Berkeley to Pidgeon Beach

We spent some time at a dock for the first time in 2 months, in Jolly Harbour, Antigua.  There are hot showers that work, a hairdresser, wifi, propane, a decent grocer, a pool and a poolside sports bar, restaurants a laundry (sadly, not a laundromat), power, water and a fuel dock. Oh, don't forget TWO book exchanges!   We used all of these amenities with enthusiasm.  It is a little like being at home, like taking a vacation (except for all the chores, of course!) from our sailing lifestyle. We've been watching movies and listening to music.  We usually don't spare the power to do these things!  There is also a beach nearby, and a stunning anchorage about 1/2 nautical mile away. 

We left the dock and went to Deep Bay, which was beautiful and isolated.  There is a wreck from 1905, the Andes, visible in the shallow anchorage.  Sadly, despite the deep azure color of the sea, the visibility was only 3-4 feet:  when cap't  went to dive our anchor, he could not even see it lying on the bottom in less then 10 feet of water, so we did not bother to snorkel the wreck.  

The Five Islands, from the Sea en route to Deep Bay

We taxied in to St. John and enjoyed the Antigua and Barbuda museum and Cap't picked up his souvenir of the trip, a Windies jersey (West Indian Cricket team).   The town was not sparkling or architecturally interesting but it was vibrant, friendly, and safe!

Capt'n wears his windies jersey while meeting Sir Viv in the St. John Museum

Volver planned to anchor in the Jolly Harbour anchorage and set out to do so on a very windy day.  First mate was getting seasick at anchor, so we hauled it up and headed back to the dock. First mate advised, we must go to happy hour, and be amongst the people.  Capt'n agreed and off we went.  We are used to running into people from various boats we've met around the Caribbean, but not so much used to running into yachties who stayed at the dock in Toronto.  But Dave, Michelle, and mom Shirley G. just about walked by us despite our mad attempts to grab their attention, eventually we prevailed and were able to have a good catch up over two successive nights happy hours and several buckets of Banks beer!  

Happy Hour at the Crow's Nest:  the motley crew

Shirley, Michelle, and Dave G. on their lovely veranda

Volver is off to St. Maarten today, planning an overnight sail.  There is a very benign forecast with perhaps less wind than one would wish for, yet we don't believe it.  Time will tell and so will we!