Iles Des Saintes

Volver left Deshaies after yet another challenging night of winds that sent boats dragging, which came after a day of dead calm winds!  Fortunately, the high winds started at 1900, and we were able to get some sleep after things settled somewhat by 2200 hours.  We got an early start and were rewarded with a brief encounter with a large pod of dolphins who were unfortunately travelling the other way and hence, did not stop to play in our bow wake.  It is starting to be whale watching season, and we plan to keep our eyes peeled.

We were disinclined to stop at Pidgeon Island, just 6 nm south of Deshaies, as our guidebook mentioned the potential need for setting two anchors or a stern anchor, and also seemed to rave about it as a diving site rather than as a snorkelling site.  However, Zack from the South African boat Vagabund was very convincing:  "you must, you MUST! snorkel Pidgeon Island!"  He had just left when we met him, so it was very fresh in his memory and we listened.  

Interesting peice of coral at Pidgeon Island reef

We anchored on the mainland and dinghied over to Pidgeon island, which comprises the Jacques Cousteau Marine Reserve.  We are glad we did.  We found ourselves surrounded by a school of Sergent Majors the minute we jumped off our dinghy, and it just got better.  There are actually two islands, and you can snorkel between them.  The first mate managed to get a few shots of interesting coral, but between the surging waves and the fast swimming, her shots of fish are only less spectacular than hoped for.  After the snorkel, we walked the beach until we walked into Le Touna, and enjoyed the best meal of the trip thus far:  Asian, Creole, and French fusion, all at once!

Enormous peice of coral at Pidgeon Rock reef

Then we anchored overnight without any complications outside the marina at Basse Terre, on the southern tip of the leward side of Guadeloupe.  Turns out the whole area closes on Wednesday afternoon, including the marina and the telephone store, so no water or SIM card for us.   That rare and revered commodity, the launderette, was open, and we were grateful for that.

Pidgeon Island Sunset

After a fairly unpleasant motorsail straight into heavy winds and seas, Volver (and Cap'n/First Mate) find themselves in yet another place they never dreamed they would be:  Iles Des Saintes, which is a group of 7 islands/rock formations off the south of Guadeloupe, only 4 of which have anchorages or habitation.   We took a mooring ball on the biggest island, Terre D'en Haut, off of the only town in the Saintes, Bourge Des Saintes.  It is a charming and colorful village.  One could do a study of the gingerbread trim:  we saw geckos (the best), doves, butterflies, and many geometrics trimming the houses and stores.  

Butterfly gingerbread house trim in Bourg de Saint

Colourful church in Bourg de Saint

Typical architecture:  this is the liquor store, closed on Sunday

Very shortly after settling in, we were happy to spot Happy Chaos arriving, and were able to help them find and tie up to the unusual mooring buoys without pennants here.  It was nice to catch up with them, as we had not seen them since Christmas Day!   We tried to enjoy the Carnival celebrations on Saturday night, but we saw no evidence of a parade:  we thought we missed it as our dinner went on later than the predicted start time of the Carnival.  We did hear a brief spurt of loud music later, once we were back on the boat:  perhaps they were on Caribbean time.

Dinner at La Fringale

The beautiful indoor garden, including waterfall, at La Fringale

The Salty boat Rum Runner had greeted us and helped us onto a mooring ball upon our arrival to the Saintes, and we joined them for a delicious French dinner at Au Bon Vivant later that evening.  We enjoyed getting to know Phil and Judy and picked their brains, as they have a lot of experience sailing the caribbean for the last 5 seasons.   The weather settled and they left early the next morning, but not before telling us about a lovely walking path, which we enjoyed.  We found the gorgeous beach of the Baie de Pompierre.  Ah, this is where all the tourists who arrive each morning by ferry and leave each afternoon go!  They walk, rent scooters, and taxi in droves to this secluded bay, which is isolated from the view of Guadeloupe by two large rocky islands, and the beach is shaded by rows of palm trees.  We walked to the Baie du Marigot (there seems to be one of these on every island!) but found it less charming.  

Beautiful Baie de Pompierre

Ever since we arrived at our first French island, Capt'n has been waxing on about his love of/desire for pain au chocolate.  Yet, the morning lassitude has been pronounced until this morning, when we made it to the patisserie in time for the last two!   Back at Volver, with a fresh cup of Gwada coffee in hand, Cap'n asks: "Why wouldn't you want to eat one of these every morning?"  "Because it would likely kill you in short order!" answers the first mate!  Can't begrudge an occasional indulgence, and that was the fulfillment of a good month of anticipatory yearning!  You have got to be an early bird in this town:  we waited in line at the fish market while the fishmonger filleted 3 Bourse for the guy ahead of us, and when we got to the front of the line we were advised that all the rest of the fish was for restaurant orders.  This was before 8 am.  Doubtful we'll ever get into town earlier than that! 

The view of the anchorage of Bourg de Sainte from Fort Josephine (Fort Napolean is at the top of the hill and cut off in the photo)

Given the proximity of Forts Napolean and Josephine, we named this goat the Count du Pompierre (Capt'n insists he looks just like Brad Pitt)

The islands had lots of trails to explore.  We dinghied over to Ilet a Cabrit and climbed up to Fort Josephine, where there were fabulous views of the Saints, Marie Galante (another Gwada Island), mainland Guadeloupe, and even Dominica was visible in the distance.  After our hike, we cooled off and snorkelled the reef south of the island.  

A local artist sells his clay masks/planter on Ile de Cabrit

Ruins at Fort Josephine (plus the king of the mountain)

Next up:  Volver heads to Dominica, one of the poorest (and therefore presenting a little more security concern) but possibly one of the most beautiful islands of our trip.  The island is all about inland exploration:  boasting rivers, waterfalls and a boiling lake, bountiful birds and butterflies, and terrific hiking in many national parks.  We'll need to hire guides to get the most benefit, as well as address safety concerns.