Bitter End, Redux

Volver has returned to where she started, the North Sound, Virgin Gorda.  We arrived slightly grumpy and starving, after a long slog to windward (put on the engine, let auto drive, and suck it up, while reminding self, "we've seen worse!"), which was punctuated by squalls that completely impeded our visibility (and we could see on our AIS that there were four boats headed straight for us!), and wrapped up with an entertaining display of marital disharmony, while we tried to pick up a mooring ball in gusty conditions.  Five tries is a charm, truly!  The captain suggested the first mate pissed someone in authority off, for the gusts would always arrive when she had successfully manoeuvred the boat to within several feet of being successful.   Gratefully, we hopped in the dinghy, and went straight to the Fat Virgin Cafe, where we first dined upon completion of our passage.  The quest for the best chicken roti, started by John and Judy, has been repeated by the captain.  His verdict:  best roti itself:  the Fat Virgin wins, hands down.  The award for the best filling, however, belongs to Foxy's Tamarind Cafe.

Home of (Possibly) the Best Chicken Roti in the BVI

Fat Virgin Selfie

We exercised our perogative to change our minds and went to the USVI, St John to be precise.  The island is mostly a national park, and was spectacularly beautiful, with few boats and fantastic snorkeling.  We saw turtles and a ray.  The town of Cruz Bay was charming, the immigration process a breeze, and the National Park Information Centre was helpful.  Armed with info, we choose to head over to Waterlemon Cay.  Our brain really wanted this to be watermelon, and read it as such many times before getting it right.  What is a waterlemon, anyway?  A gorgeous anchorage!  Of course, there is no anchoring, mooring balls only, to protect the reef.  

The Reef that separates the Cay from Sir Francis Drake Channel

The first day, we swam to shore with shoes in our snorkel gear bag (no dinghy dock, no dinghies on the beach!).  We did a mile long walk along the shore, then up to explore the ruins of a sugar plantation, which was situated on a hill with a terrific view of the Bay.  

Ruins overlooking Waterlemon Cay

That was a much longer swim than anticipated, and didn't leave alot of energy for exploring the reef too much, given the very strong ocean going current in the "no boat" exclusion zone.  So the next morning, we moved the boat closer to shore so our swim to shore was shorter, as we needed to conserve energy for the days hike across the island (over the hill) to visit the small community of Coral Bay.  The park info promised donkeys and goats (don't be afraid of the noises in the night, donkeys are not your friend, please don't pet them!  So much more safety information in the USVI than here in the laid back, BVI), but only delivered copious droppings and one goat on the trail, although the goats were herding themselves in droves through the village of Coral Bay.  

City Slicker Goats

The hermit crab population was quite prolific and unexpected at the top of a mountain, where we saw "NO CRABBING" signs.  The grade was fairly steep and in full sun for the walk home, so we were glad we had obtained sustainance at Skinny Legs cafe.   Despite being quite fatigued and having burning quadriceps upon return, we had good energy to use some upper body muscles and snorkelled the reef. Always use the buddy system when the surfs up!

Mucho Pelicano, trying to hitch a ride on the dinghy

We reluctantly left, and headed for a night in Road Town, in order to do a big provision.  Sadly, there was no room at the marina, and we spent a very rolly night anchored outside the inner harbour, sleeping quite poorly.  No pool, no laundry, no charging up the batteries, but we'll do all these things tomorrow, having made a reservation at Leverick Bay Marina.  There are lots of Salty Dawg boats here in the North Sound, but we have not heard of a lot of organized activities.  

The wind and seas continue unco-operative although the forecast suggests Christmas Day would be a good day to transit, with still east winds, but 10-15 knots of wind and 3-5 foots seas (current conditions 25 knots, 7-10 foot seas).  The wrench in our plans for getting to St. Marten is a current CDC travel advisory.  There is an outbreak of both Dengue fever (no prevention, no treatment, potentially life threatening, and of chikungunya virus (no treatment, RARELY life threatening) in St Marten.  Of course, there is prevention, don't get bit by mosquitos.  However, the captain has no need for bug spray when the first mate is nearby, as she is an insect attractant, currently covered in "no see'em" bites, despite generous application of bug spray.  We really wish to buy a wind generator there:  duty free, lots of boatyard expertise. Will likely head to St. Kitts or Martinique instead.  More later, we have to try and find a place to watch the Barca game!  

Pizza Pub:  Volver's home club burgee shows up in the strangest places!